Let's embark on a journey along Wales' north-west coast, a place where history, nature, and unique attractions converge. From the moment I laid eyes on the view from St Michael's graveyard in Ynys, I was captivated. The quirky charm of Portmeirion, nestled across the bay, and the majestic peaks of Eryri in the distance, created a scene that was simply breathtaking. It's no wonder that the tidal island of Ynys Gifftan, recently put up for sale, sparked my imagination.
What makes this particular stretch of Wales so intriguing is its geographical quirkiness. Affectionately, or perhaps not so affectionately, referred to as the "armpit" by some, this region where estuaries meet Cardigan Bay is a hidden gem. It's here that I decided to explore, combining the convenience of rail travel with the freedom of hiking.
The Cambrian Line, starting in Shrewsbury, offers a unique perspective on this coastline. It's accompanied by the Wales Coast Path and the newly launched Cadfan Way, a pilgrimage route with a rich historical context. My journey began in Machynlleth, a town with a surprising number of indie shops and a renowned restaurant, Gwen, which I sadly missed out on due to budgetary constraints.
As the train journey progressed, the landscape became increasingly captivating. The Dyfi estuary, with its bird-filled mudflats and salt marshes, offered a unique natural spectacle. The train's route, running alongside the estuary, provided an intimate view of nature's wonders. We continued north, passing through towns like Tywyn and tiny halts like Tonfanau, each with its own story to tell.
Harlech was a highlight. The imposing Harlech Castle, built by Edward I, is a formidable structure that demands attention. The modern floating bridge, a contrast to the castle's ancient walls, provided easy access. I imagined the challenges faced by would-be intruders in the past, with its intricate defense system. The gloomy weather added to the castle's allure, making it a truly atmospheric experience.
The next day, I set off on foot, heading north along the coast. The rocky Rhinogs, rising behind the village, tempted me, but I stuck to my plan. Rounding Harlech Point, I was rewarded with stunning views down the Dwyryd estuary, including the isolated St Michael's and my fantasy island, Ynys Gifftan. Following the Cadfan Way, I discovered St Tecwyn's, an even lonelier church, perched above the estuary.
Portmeirion, a fantastical resort village, is a unique attraction. Celebrating its centenary, it's a trippy creation with a candy-colored palette and architectural quirks. The Prisoner Shop, selling memorabilia from the cult TV show filmed there, was a reminder of its enduring popularity. The cashier's comment about its relevance today, especially with young viewers on YouTube, was an interesting insight.
Staying at Castell Deudraeth, I enjoyed the Gothic charm of the building and its amenities. But the sunrise stroll through the village, with no one else around, was magical. Watching the sun illuminate the hot-pink camellia groves, it was a peaceful and memorable moment.
My journey continued to Porthmadog and then Pwllheli, the end of the Cambrian Line. I learned about the horse-drawn tramway built by Solomon Andrews in the 1890s, which once extended further west. Today, the old tramway track is part of the Wales Coast Path, offering an easy and scenic walk. Plas Glyn-y-Weddw, Andrews' former estate, is now a gallery and a charming cafe, serving delicious cake.
In conclusion, this journey along Wales' north-west coast was a unique and enriching experience. It combined the convenience of rail travel with the adventure of hiking, offering a deep dive into history, nature, and unique attractions. From the imposing Harlech Castle to the fantastical Portmeirion, each stop told a story. It's a journey I'd highly recommend for anyone seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure.
